FURNACE & HEATING

Glory Hole

The reheating chamber that keeps a piece workable between steps.

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Glory Hole — line drawing
The bench where glory hole is usedGathering glass at the furnaceThe annealing kiln
1250 °CCONTINUOUSShapeBlowColor

Specifications

Opening diameter
150 – 300 mm
Operating temperature
1150 – 1300 °C
Chamber depth
300 – 500 mm
Heat source
Gas burner, often with forced air; electric on small units
Recovery time
10 – 40 s to bring a gather back to working temperature
Body
Steel shell lined with insulating firebrick and a hot-face castable
Working height
Set to the operator — usually 950 – 1100 mm to the sill

Technical parameters

Burner
Single or twin, with air/gas proportioning for an oxidising flame
Atmosphere
Must run oxidising or neutral; a reducing flame will grey the glass
Door
Sliding or hinged, to keep the chamber hot when not in use
Rotation rest
A pair of rollers or a yoke in front, so the pipe keeps turning
Floor
A flat sill that will not catch the pipe as it rolls
Cost band
Medium — cheaper than the furnace, used far more often

Overview

A glory hole is an open-fronted reheating chamber, hotter than the furnace and used constantly. Glass loses workability within seconds of leaving the furnace, so the rhythm of a hot shop is a loop: shape at the bench, reheat at the glory hole, shape again. The glory hole runs hotter than the furnace because its job is to bring the surface of a cooling piece back up fast, without heating the whole piece through.

Where it fits in the process

Glory Hole is used in shape, blow, color. The stage decides how hot the glass has to be when the tool touches it, which in turn decides how much of the work it can do in one pass.

Safe use

  • The glory hole mouth is the brightest and hottest thing in the studio. Never look into it without appropriate eye protection.
  • Radiant heat from the open mouth burns skin at a distance. A heat shield belongs on every pipe.
  • A piece reheated too fast will crack. Watch the surface, not the clock.
  • Keep the front sill clear. A pipe rolled into a stray tool will take the piece off the end.

How it is used

  1. Run the glory hole oxidising. A reducing flame deposits carbon and greys a clear glass permanently.
  2. Reheat little and often rather than long and rarely. Fast surface reheats keep the interior stable.
  3. Keep the pipe rotating whenever the piece is in the chamber. A stationary piece slumps.
  4. Never put a piece into the glory hole wet. Any water on the surface will spall the glass.
  5. Set the height once for your body and mark it. Reaching up or down all day is what wrecks a shoulder.

Compatible glass types

Glass furnaceBlowpipeHeat shieldJacksWooden block

Matching the tool to the glass family matters less than matching the glass to itself — see the COE compatibility calculator before combining two glasses.